Article du 3 February 2025
The rustic charm of Alsace
An emblematic dish of the Alsace region, salted turnips (or Süri Riewe, or other spellings in Alsatian), also known as candied turnips, embody both an age-old culinary tradition and a unique craft.
Long considered an everyday winter staple, this dish made from lacto-fermented turnips is prized for its authenticity and characteristic tangy flavors.
Whether as an accompaniment to smoked meats or as a main ingredient, salted turnips form a deep link between Alsatian cuisine and its farming roots.
Ancestral preservation method
Salted turnips have their origins in an ancestral preservation practice that was essential to rural families in the past. Before the advent of refrigeration, lacto-fermentation was used to preserve vegetables and give them their special flavor. Turnips were grated, salted and then fermented in wooden or stoneware barrels, where they developed a melt-in-the-mouth texture and a slightly acidic taste. This technique, similar to that used for sauerkraut, has survived the centuries to become a culinary signature of the region.
An ingredient at the heart of tradition
In Alsatian gastronomy, savory turnips are often associated with comfort food. They go well with smoked meats like kassler or bacon, and sausages like knack (or even Montbéliard). These pairings highlight the balance between the acidity of turnips and the sweet flavors of meats: the art of sublimating simple, rustic ingredients.
Modernized salted turnips
Although deeply rooted in tradition, savory turnips are enjoying a revival thanks to daring chefs who are revisiting this specialty. They are incorporating lacto-fermented turnips into contemporary recipes, such as vegetarian tartars, tangy soups or even fusion dishes combining Alsatian flavors with Asian influences, for example. These reinterpretations bring this local product to a wider audience, while respecting its culinary identity.
Consume to preserve
Artisanal production of salted turnips is still largely family-run and local, supported by passionate farmers and processors. However, with the increasing standardization of the food industry, this specialty could be under threat. Several initiatives, such as farmers’ markets and gastronomic festivals, are highlighting this unique culinary heritage. Encouraging the consumption of salted turnips also means contributing to the preservation of traditional know-how and farming methods.
A healthy, nutritious pleasure
In addition to their taste, salted turnips offer numerous health benefits. Lacto-fermentation enriches vegetables with probiotics, promoting good digestion and a balanced microbiota. Low in calories and rich in vitamins, notably vitamin C, they are an asset to a healthy, balanced diet. Their natural acidity also enhances dishes without the need for artificial condiments.
A story to tell
A symbol of Alsace’s cultural crossroads, salted turnips tell the story of a region where the land and its traditions have always played a central role. Through their preparation and tasting, we perpetuate the values of conviviality, respect for the land and transmission. Timeless and rooted in the Alsatian identity, salted turnips fully deserve their place in regional gastronomy and beyond.
Recipes
Salted turnips, or “Süri Riewe” (or other spellings) in Alsatian, are used in a variety of traditional recipes. Here are a few ideas for popular turnip recipes, along with their general origins:
Salted turnips with potatoes and charcuterie: a traditional peasant dish in which salted turnips are cooked with potatoes, smoked sausages (such as Montbéliard or Morteau), and sometimes bacon.
Alsatian-style salted turnips with pork shank: in the popular Alsatian tradition, salted turnips are simmered with a salted pork shank, onions and spices. This rustic dish is often prepared in winter.
Salted turnip gratin: a more modern version where salted turnips are mixed with potatoes, cream and cheese to make a comforting gratin.
Savory turnip soup: a delicious family recipe for winter. Savory turnips are cooked in soup with root vegetables, potatoes, and sometimes a dash of cream to balance their acidity.
Salted turnips and sauerkraut revisited: turnip or sauerkraut? In this variation on classic sauerkraut, salted turnips replace or complement fermented cabbage. They are cooked with smoked meats and spices.
Salted turnips, "Süri Rüewe" by Simone Morgenthaler
Ingredients for 6 people :
- 1.5 kg salted turnips (available from October to February in butcher’s shops and specialty stores)
- 1 glass oil or 100 g lard (or goose fat)
- 1 large onion
- 500 g smoked paddle (known as “Schifele”)
- 200 g bacon (smoked or not)
- 1 knuckle of ham (optional)
- 2 garlic cloves
- 2 cloves
- 5 juniper berries
- 1 bay leaf
- A little grated nutmeg
- 1 sprig thyme
- Salt and pepper
- 3 dl Alsace white wine
- 1 glass of water
- 6 “knacks” (Strasbourg sausages) or 6 smoked cooking sausages
- 1 kg potatoes (boiled or baked)
Preparation:
- Heat the fat in a cast-iron casserole and sauté the chopped onion.
- Wash the salted turnips several times in plenty of water, drain and squeeze.
- Arrange half the salted turnips on top of the onions, then add the chops, bacon, knuckle of ham (if using) and garlic cloves. Season lightly with salt (the turnips and meats are already salted) and pepper.
- Add the herbs, wrapped in a fine, knotted cloth. Cover with the remaining turnips.
- Moisten with wine and water.
- Cover and simmer gently for 1 h 30 to 2 hours. 10 minutes before the end of cooking time, add the sausages.
- Cook the potatoes.
- Serve this rustic potée with mustard.
This recipe is taken from the book “Mon Alsace gourmande” by Simone Morgenthaler
Suri Ruawa" candied turnips by Marc Haeberlin
Ingredients for 6 people :
- 2 kg salted turnips
- 400 g unsmoked salted bacon
- 6 goose or duck legs confit
- 1/2 smoked pork shoulder (schiffala)
- 1/2 liter Alsace white wine
- 2 onions
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 bay leaf
- 100 g goose fat
Preparation:
- Cook the bacon and smoked pork shoulder in water for about 45 minutes. Wash and drain the turnips.
- In a casserole dish, melt the goose fat and sweat the chopped onions. Add the turnips, bay leaf and crushed garlic clove.
- Add the white wine and the cooking water from the bacon and pork shoulder. Cover and simmer in the oven for 1 h 30.
- Halfway through cooking, add the bacon and pork shoulder, then the goose legs confit 10 minutes before the end.
- Turnips should remain slightly crunchy. Serve on a hot platter, with steamed meats and potatoes.
This recipe is taken from the book “Les Recettes de L’Auberge de L’Ill” by P., M., J.-P. Haeberlin (in L’Hôtellerie Restauration).
